Smitty's RV-9A - Experimental Aircraft from Van's Aircraft The RV-9A from Van's Aircraft Howdeeeeee! I'm building an RV-9A from Van's Aircraft. Take your shoes off and sit a spell.
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RV Construction Log
- Horizontal Stabilizer (49:40)
- Vertical Stabilizer (21:15)
- Rudder (32:15)
- Right Elevator (35:45)
- Left Elevator (30:50)
- Inventory & Setup (9:30)
- Left Wing Prep (54:30)
- Left Fuel Tank (45:20)
- Left Wing Skins (46:10)
- Right Wing Prep (34:15)
- Right Fuel Tank (47:50)
- Right Wing Skins (40:15)
- Ailerons (54:30)
- Flaps (40:30)
- Rods and ends (18:45)
- Fuselage Parts List
- Inventory and Setup (7:15)
- FireWall (14:30)
- F-704 Bulkhead (13:25)
- F-705 Bulkhead (14:20)
- Other Bulkheads
   and Longerons

- Tailcone (29:30)
- Center Section (35:15)
- Forward Section (52:40)
- Forward Assembly (24:30)
- Skins/Baggage Area (46:30)
- Seats & Seat Floors (30:15)
- Flaps & Gear Mounts (18:15)
- Fuselage Plumbing (14:0)
- Tail Feathers (16:35)
- Front Deck/Firewall (58:50)
Finish Kit
- Electrical (57:30)
- Electrical Part 2 (24:0)
- Canopy (22:30)
- Landing Gear (18:35)
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Pop-Rivet Dimpler 101
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Flaps - 11/17/2007
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Finishing up rivet the ribs and spar togetherFinishing up rivet the ribs and spar together
That's a lot of rivets! After some head scratching, I decided to rivet on the FL-906C spacer and the "L" shaped FL-906A angle piece first, leaving the end holes in the spar open for attaching the rib later. Then I riveted the end rib/FL-906B to the FL-906A angle and spar.
Riveted on the rest of the ribsRiveted on the rest of the ribs
This was easy, compared the end ribs. I used my pneumatic squeezer with the longeron yoke. The spar holder jig shown is this picture is probably my most used jig. It really frees up your hands.
Clecoed on the top skinClecoed on the top skin
Clecoed on the front skinsClecoed on the front skins
Clecoed down the front skins on the other sideClecoed down the front skins on the other side
I used the previously drilled holes in the work bench to allow the top skin to lay flat on the table top. I placed the clecos in the original position they were when the work table holes were first drilled. I clecoed the front skin to the spar knowing that these clecos will come out later to put the bottom skin on. This will make it easier to put the pop-rivets in, in the next step.
Started putting in the pop-rivets into the leading edge skinStarted putting in the pop-rivets into the leading edge skin
The instructions say that these holes need to drilled out using a 7/64" bit to allow the installing of the flush fitting MK-319-BS pop-rivets. All of the holes on the leading edge skin are pop-riveted except for the holes in the ends of the flap, which will get regular rivets. According to at least one DAR I know, MK-319-BS are considered to have the same strength as any AN3 rivet.
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