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- Horizontal Stabilizer (49:40)
- Vertical Stabilizer (21:15)
- Rudder (32:15)
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- Left Elevator (30:50)
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- Left Wing Prep (54:30)
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   and Longerons

- Tailcone (29:30)
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Right Wing Prep - 12/1/2006
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Started on the Right Wing!Started on the Right Wing!
Now that I have gone through the building process with the left wing, I going to approach several things differently with the right. I decided to build these table jigs to hold the main wing spar upside down so I can see what I'm doing while putting on the nutplates. The jigs are made from 2x6's, 2x2's, 2 small pieces of 1/2" plywood and some old carpet. I screwed the 2x6's to the plywood, and then screwed the 2x2's to the 2x6's, and then screwed the plywood to the work bench. Then I stampled some carpet onto the 2x6's to protect the spar.
Gave it a tryGave it a try
This is going to work. I can easily get to everything and the spar won't scoot around while I'm working on it.
Attached the tank nutplatesAttached the tank nutplates
This went really fast. I went down the line and final drilled the rivet holes. Then I set the microstop countersink to proper depth after a couple of trial countersinks. Then I went down the line doing all of the countersinks. Then I grabbed my rattle can primer and sprayed all the holes in one swoop and then quickly wiped off the excess off the face of the spar. Then it was just a matter of riveting on the nutplates with my hand squeezer.
Countersunk the spar for the fuel tank screwsCountersunk the spar for the fuel tank screws
I tried a different approach on these countersinks as well. This time I set the final depth of the countersink on the Microstop Countersink after a trial cut. Then I started cutting the countersinks using short bursts with the drill. Right away the countersink bit danced wildy around in the pre-drilled hole and look like crap and not perfectly round. Right before the final finish cut, I held the countersink very gently against the hole, just barely touching it, and let the drill rev as high as it go. This made the hole perfectly round, where before it was getting badly distorted by the initial countersink. Then I checked the depth of the hole by using a scrap piece of aluminum that was the same thickness as the tank skin, with a #8 dimple in it.
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