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RV-9A: Right Wing Prep - 12/13/2006
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Time to start riveting the ribs to the main sparTime to start riveting the ribs to the main spar
I numbered the ribs, 1 thru 15, with the #1 rib being the first one at the inboard end of the main spar. I removed the end outboard rib (#15) since it doesnít get riveted on yet. To get enough room to get into position to rivet the #14 rib, I removed the #13 rib. The inboard (heavy) part of the main spar is resting on the work bench, held in place with some 2x4 blocks and some rubber matting.
Getting set up for the riveting sessionGetting set up for the riveting session
I used a 7.5 inch Rivet Shank that I got from Averys to put the rivet gun far back enough to where I wouldn't have to push the rib too far out the way to get the rivet in. I put medical tape around the spring to prevent scratching off the primer on the rib. I bumped up the pressure to 65 lbs for this riveting session. I have found that the longer the shank, the greater the pressure needed.
Starting working my way down the lineStarting working my way down the line
This was a little spooky but worked quite well. After I riveted the #14 rib, I removed the #12 rib out of my way and riveted the #13 rib. As I got closer to the work bench, I put my table saw roller support under the outboard end of the spar and bungee corded it to the spar to make it didnít slip off.
So far so goodSo far so good
Hereís another shot of whole process. Iím riveting in one rib at a time, working from the outboard end towards the inboard end. This is a heck of a lot easier than what I came up with on the left wing.
Hereís the finished product!Hereís the finished product!
When I got the #6 rib in place, I moved the hole assembly back over to rest somewhat centered on the bench. This left the wing walk ribs (#1-5) easily accessible for riveting. I removed ribs 1-4 and riveted #5 in place, then started working my way back to the inboard end, putting the ribs in one at a time.
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