Smitty's RV-9A - Experimental Aircraft from Van's Aircraft The RV-9A from Van's Aircraft  
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Preparation
Empennage
- Horizontal Stabilizer (49:40)
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- Left Elevator (30:50)
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- Inventory & Setup (9:30)
- Left Wing Prep (54:30)
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   and Longerons
(17:30)

- Tailcone (29:30)
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- Forward Section (52:40)
- Forward Assembly (24:30)
- Skins/Baggage Area (46:30)
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- Flaps & Gear Mounts (18:15)
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- Front Deck/Firewall (58:50)
Finish Kit
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- Electrical Part 2 (24:0)
- Canopy (22:30)
- Landing Gear (18:35)
How I Did Stuff
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Paint Possibilities
Right Fuel Tank - 1/26/2007
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Getting ready to rivet the T-406B fuel cap flangeGetting ready to rivet the T-406B fuel cap flange
Iím determined to keep the mess to a minimum on this tank. I cut a hole in some typing paper and taped it to the tank around the fuel cap flange.
Taped down the rivets for the fuel cap flange back-riveting sessionTaped down the rivets for the fuel cap flange back-riveting session
On the other tank, I just put tape over the rivets and left the hole open. The result was a huge proseal mess all over the back-riveting board. This time the rivet tape is going to trap the proseal on one side of the tank skin.
Getting ready to Rivet on the VA-112 drain flangeGetting ready to Rivet on the VA-112 drain flange
Same song and dance here. The typing paper and painters tape will keep the mess to a minimum.
Back-riveted the T-406B fuel cap flangeBack-riveted the T-406B fuel cap flange
I pressed down hard on the back rivet tool to make sure that the curved fuel cap flange laid flat against the skin and back-rivet plate. I used a paper towel with some laquer thinner to clean up the excess proseal and forced the excess into the crack between the skin and the fuel cap flange to assure a good seal.
Hereís a shot of the back of the fuel cap flangeHereís a shot of the back of the fuel cap flange
The painters tape and typing paper make cleanup a snap. The small curled T-914 clip was a real pain in the bahootie to rivet. I had to drill it out twice before finally getting it right. I ended up using my 4 inch yoke from Averys to put this one rivet in. The back-riveting on the rest of the rivets was easy.
Riveted on the VA-112 drain flangeRiveted on the VA-112 drain flange
I pushed the rivets into the holes one at a time and squeezed them in place with my 4 inch yoke and hand squeezer. The proseal oozed out everywhere, especially in the screw hole in the middle of the drain flange. I cleaned everything up with a paper towel and lacquer thinner. To clean out the screw hole, I rolled up a piece of paper towel and forced it through the hole and pulled it through the other side, turning it as I pulled it through.
Back shot of the VA-112 drain flangeBack shot of the VA-112 drain flange
I dobbed proseal on the rivets on the inside of the tank skin.
Plugged the hole in the outboard T-903 end ribPlugged the hole in the outboard T-903 end rib
The instructions gave me the choice of creating a cover plate to rivet on or squeezing a really large rivet into the hole. It just so happens that I have a "bucket o' rivets" that I got from another builder that has already completed his RV. I found the perfect size rivet in the bucket and squeezed it into the hole. I made sure that the hole already had some proseal in it before the squeeze. Then I put an extra dab of black goo on top of the rivet, on both sides.
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A website designed for Van's Aircraft Homebuilders, helping them find the information they need to build the most dynamic aircraft in the world.
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This website was built to document the construction of an RV-9A in compliance with the FAA requirements needed to certify the aircraft. Any experiences and/or comments are by no means to be considered as instructions on how to build an RV-9A or any other aircraft.
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