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RV Construction Log
- Horizontal Stabilizer (49:40)
- Vertical Stabilizer (21:15)
- Rudder (32:15)
- Right Elevator (35:45)
- Left Elevator (30:50)
- Inventory & Setup (9:30)
- Left Wing Prep (54:30)
- Left Fuel Tank (45:20)
- Left Wing Skins (46:10)
- Right Wing Prep (34:15)
- Right Fuel Tank (47:50)
- Right Wing Skins (40:15)
- Ailerons (54:30)
- Flaps (40:30)
- Rods and ends (18:45)
- Fuselage Parts List
- Inventory and Setup (7:15)
- FireWall (14:30)
- F-704 Bulkhead (13:25)
- F-705 Bulkhead (14:20)
- Other Bulkheads
   and Longerons

- Tailcone (29:30)
- Center Section (35:15)
- Forward Section (52:40)
- Forward Assembly (24:30)
- Skins/Baggage Area (46:30)
- Seats & Seat Floors (30:15)
- Flaps & Gear Mounts (18:15)
- Fuselage Plumbing (14:0)
- Tail Feathers (16:35)
- Front Deck/Firewall (58:50)
Finish Kit
- Electrical (57:30)
- Electrical Part 2 (24:0)
- Canopy (22:30)
- Landing Gear (18:35)
How I Did Stuff
Pop-Rivet Dimpler 101
My Wing Jig
My Wing Cradle
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Delrin Aileron Stops
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Paint Possibilities
Left Wing Skins - 9/15/2006
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Back to work on the left wing. Allright!Back to work on the left wing. Allright!
HmmÖ What was I working on when I left this thing? Here I removed the top skins to start deburring and dimpling the rivet holes in the ribs and skins. I used my sharpie to mark the holes on the outer edges that donít get dimpled where the fuselage fairing and fiberglass tips will attach. I will also sand the edges of the skins to round them off a little.
Got out the old soldering ironGot out the old soldering iron
After wrestling with tank for so long, this was actually fun work, no proseal mess. After I etched the out plastic film on the left top wing skin, I called out my kiddo to peal off the plastic over the rivet holes. He loves doing that.
Dimpliní timeDimpliní time
If the skin Iím dimpling is thin enough, I like to use my pop-rivet dimplers. They do such a nice job of making perfect dimples with no dips in the outer skin anywhere. I purposely took this shot with the fluorescent light in the reflection to show that there are no dips in the skin around the dimple. What a smart-ass.
One skin down, 3 to goOne skin down, 3 to go
Yeah, I know the pop-rivet dimplers take a long time, but it sure makes for a nice wing skin.
Started work on the smaller top inner wing skinStarted work on the smaller top inner wing skin
No pop-rivet dimpler for this dude. Itís pretty thick. Before I start dimpling any sheetmetal, I always find a small sheet from the sample bundle that came with the tail kit that is the same thickness as the one Iím about to dimple. Then I experiment using the pop-rivet dimpler against the C-Frame dimpler. In this case, the C-Frame dimpler won out, the pop-rivet dimpler couldnít handle the thickness as was making dips in the practice piece. Tomorrow I will dimple this sheet with the C-Frame, giving each rivet hole one solid ďWHACKĒ with my dead-blow hammer. I found that anything more than one solid whack tends to make a dip in the skin (for me anyway).
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