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- Horizontal Stabilizer (49:40)
- Vertical Stabilizer (21:15)
- Rudder (32:15)
- Right Elevator (35:45)
- Left Elevator (30:50)
- Inventory & Setup (9:30)
- Left Wing Prep (54:30)
- Left Fuel Tank (45:20)
- Left Wing Skins (46:10)
- Right Wing Prep (34:15)
- Right Fuel Tank (47:50)
- Right Wing Skins (40:15)
- Ailerons (54:30)
- Flaps (40:30)
- Rods and ends (18:45)
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- Inventory and Setup (7:15)
- FireWall (14:30)
- F-704 Bulkhead (13:25)
- F-705 Bulkhead (14:20)
- Other Bulkheads
   and Longerons

- Tailcone (29:30)
- Center Section (35:15)
- Forward Section (52:40)
- Forward Assembly (24:30)
- Skins/Baggage Area (46:30)
- Seats & Seat Floors (30:15)
- Flaps & Gear Mounts (18:15)
- Fuselage Plumbing (14:0)
- Tail Feathers (16:35)
- Front Deck/Firewall (58:50)
Finish Kit
- Electrical (57:30)
- Electrical Part 2 (24:0)
- Canopy (22:30)
- Landing Gear (18:35)
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Rudder - 10/30/2005
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Final drilled the stiffeners to the right rudder skinFinal drilled the stiffeners to the right rudder skin
Because of space issues, I have decided to do one side at a time. Here I final drilled the stiffeners into the skin and clecoed everything down to the work table.
Deburred the skin holesDeburred the skin holes
The instructions said to be careful here. Since the rudder skin is so thin, a light and short deburr is required.
Finished the stiffeners and dimpled them.Finished the stiffeners and dimpled them.
This time I decided to sand and scotchbrite the stiffeners for priming before dimpling. UPDATE 4/10/2006: Here's where I get confused. I was surrounded by 3 RV builders and an A&P yesterday who told me I was nuts for using the Scotchbrite pad on the ribs and spars. The instructions on the self-etching spray can say to rough up the surface so the primer will adhere. These guys told me by doing that I was removing the alclad coating that naturally protects the aluminum from corrision. They also said that since I primed over where I had scotchbrited, I was OK. The primer will protect the part. They said that I only need to put primer where the ribs, spars and skins meet other. In the future I am still going to prime the whole spar or rib, but I will not be rubbing the whole spar or rim down with a scotchbrite pad before priming.
Dimpled the right rudder skinDimpled the right rudder skin
I am using the Avery Pop-Rivet dimplers to set the dimples for the flat head rivets that hold the stiffeners in place. It is slow going, but so am I. I have to say that I feel more in control in the dimpling process using the Pop-Rivet dimpler, instead of whacking the aluminum with a hammer using the traditional "C" Frame dimpler.
Primed the stiffeners for the right rudder skinPrimed the stiffeners for the right rudder skin
Time to do that back rivet thang.
Riveted on the stiffeners to the right rudder skinRiveted on the stiffeners to the right rudder skin
Using a back riveting tool that I got from Averys, I riveted on the stiffeners to the rudder skin using the back rivet board that I built.
On the flip sideOn the flip side
Couldn't ask for anything better. I'm really happy with this riveting job.
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