RV-9A: Left Elevator - 1/16/2006
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 Getting ready to backrivet the stiffeners on the left elevator bottom
After taping the top of the elevator skin to the backboard, I put a couple of foam rubber mattresses under the skin to hold it up while I taped down the rivets.
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 Backriveted the bottom left elevator stiffeners
Just as before, this went pretty fast, once I had the timing down.
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 Preparing the nutplates for riveting to the trim tab plate
I got this idea from another builders website. I used a combination of my drill and my drimmel to make hole in a piece of wood to hold the nutplates while I countersinked the nutplate with my drill press. I am starting to notice that the plans don't "hold your hand" anymore. When they say to use a flat head rivet, your supposed to know to either countersink or dimple the hole.
UPDATE: 6/8/2007: This isn't the best way to dimple the nutplates. Check out this page.
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 Riveted the nutplates to the trim tab plate
After priming the nutplates, I riveted them to the trim tab plate with my hand squeezer.
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 Riveted the trim tab plate to the left elevator
I used my 4 inch and "no-hole" yoke to rivet the plate in.
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 Riveted the counterbalance assembly to the left elevator
There are 4 rivets to put in to attached this assembly to the elevator spar. The green arrow is pointing to the outer 2 rivets that were real easy to put in. But there was a whole lot of head scratchin' going on, trying to figure the best way to get the inner 2 rivets in. I finally decided to use a long shank rivet set that I got from Averys, along with a bucking bar.
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 Getting the problem rivet
When I got ready to rivet the elevator skin to the counterbalance arm, I did the problem rivet first, which is shown in the photo (click the picture for a blownup view - yeah I know, it's a picture of the right elevator). At this point, since the counterbalance arm is only riveted to the spar, I was able to push the front of the counterbalance over slightly away from the main spar, pivoting it on the attachment point. Then I was able to get my 4 inch yoke with the hand squeezer in between the counterbalance arm and the rounded front edge of the elevator skin to get to this rivet. After I got both rivets in on top and bottom, then I swung the arm back into position and did the rest of the skin rivets.
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