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RV-9A: Flaps - 8/20/2007
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Getting things straightGetting things straight
These flaps are 7 feet long. I laid my 8 foot aluminum straight edge on the middle of the table where the trailing edge is drilled into the particle board table top. When I gazed down the edge the particle board top, it looked just like the rolling hills of North East Texas. Yeah, it's a good idea to use particle board, but it goes with the flow, when it comes to conforming to that which it is adhered, namely the 2x4 frame. It is practically impossible to get perfectly straight 2x4s. Then the heat of the garage, combined with the greenness of the 2x4s, compounds the problem of keeping stuff straight. I put shims where I could to get the top perfectly flat, but it just ain't gonna' do it (not good enough for me at least).
Here's my solutionHere's my solution
I went down to Lowes (aircraft and lumber supply) and bought a 1/8 inch thick piece of angle aluminum and a sheet of 1/8 inch masonite (4' x 8'). I cut two pieces off the masonite sheet, 8 1/2 inches wide. Then I transferred the holes from the particle board work top to the masonsite sheet and drilled out the holes with a 1 inch drill bit. Then I sanded off the rough edges.
Laid the aluminum angle next to the masonite sheetLaid the aluminum angle next to the masonite sheet
Now when I get ready to drill the trailing edge of the flaps, I will be drilling and clecoing into the 1/8 inch angle aluminum, which should keep a nice straight edge going, kind of like the rudder.
Close up of the match in heightClose up of the match in height
Yep, this should work. When I get ready to drill the trailing edge, the weight of the boards that holds the skins down will also force the trailing edge down onto the aluminum angle. In turn the aluminum angle will force the edge to be straight. Then when it comes time to rivet, I will proseal the wedge into the trailing edge and re-cleco everything back onto the previously drilled aluminum angle. I will let the proseal dry for 48 hours before final riveting.
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