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Left Wing Skins - 9/29/2006
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Mystery rivet solved!Mystery rivet solved!
A fellow RV builder emailed me and gave me the solution. Apparently the "plus" sign shown on the drawing indicates a AN426AD3-4 rivet, which is a flat head rivet, which will require me to countersink the spar to put in the rivet.
Found the rivet size on the Rivet LegendFound the rivet size on the Rivet Legend
Itís not Vanís fault that I didn't read the plans like I was supposed to. But the quality of the print on the plans is not very good. As shown in the picture, the symbol for the #4 rivet is hard to tell from the #4.5 rivet.
Removed the outboard leading edge assemblyRemoved the outboard leading edge assembly
This is reminiscent of the fuel tank.
Final drilled the Mystery rivet hole into the ribFinal drilled the Mystery rivet hole into the rib
I put clecos in each of the bottom holes to hold the rib in place for the final drilling of the Mystery rivet hole. Then I used my 12 inch #40 drill bit to drill the holes. After I countersinked this holes, I shot some primer in them and went ahead and put in the flush rivet to hold the top of the rib to the spar.
Countersinked all of the #40 rivet holes in the wing sparCountersinked all of the #40 rivet holes in the wing spar
After a few whacks with the Microstop Countersink in the air drill, I managed to get the depth of the countersink just right. Then I went to town, countersinkiní them rivet holes, occasionally checking the depth with my scrap piece of dimpled sheet metal. By the time I got close to the end of that multitude of rivet holes, I started to smell something that indicated to me that something is getting hot. I walked over to the my Sears P.O.S. air compressor and felt the radiant heat off the motor and decided "Maybe it needs a break". After letting it cool off I finished the rest of the countersinks. My next compressor will have the air pump driven by a belt from a separate motor and have a 60 gallon tank.
Dimpled the rear sparDimpled the rear spar
I used my hand squeezer to dimple these holes. Then, as indicated by the instructions, I did little hand countersink of the holes to make sure that the skin will lay flat on the spar after it is riveting on. To make things a little easier, I duct taped my countersink bit into the end of one of the Home Depot cheapy 6 dollar electric screw drivers, powered by 4 double "A" batteries.
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