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Rudder - 11/4/2005
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Riveted the rudder skins to the inner skeletonRiveted the rudder skins to the inner skeleton
Got all the rivets in with the 4 inch yoke on my Avery rivet squeezer and bought a new "no-hole" yoke to do the last ones in the top and bottom ribs.
Riveted the skin to the rudder braceRiveted the skin to the rudder brace
This was a part that I dreaded. I saw on other sites where guys had tried to buck the rivets from inside the anchor blindly through the hole. The drawing says you can use pop-rivets here as well. Neither idea sounded good to me. I tried getting my rivet squeezer inside the rudder brace but when trying to squeeze the rivet, I ran out of space between the rudder brace hole and the inside of the squeezer. My solution was to put a row of washers on the dimple die to push it out a little. It worked like a charm. I was able to squeeze all 4 rivets with the hand squeezer. I'm slowly learning that it's OK to deviate from the norm in building this aircraft.
A shot of the squeezer with the washers addedA shot of the squeezer with the washers added
I don't know how I could have built this rudder without the 4 inch yoke for my squeezer.
TIme to start on the trailing assemblyTIme to start on the trailing assembly
I went to Home Depot and bought an 8 foot piece of 2 inch wide angle aluminum. Anything smaller just seemed to flimsy to me. It was 31 bucks! Ouch! Here I had drilled matching holes in the angle aluminum and clecoed on the skins just to check out the hole match. I received my Pro-Seal today from Aircraft Spruce that I will use to glue the edge together before riveting.
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This website was built to document the construction of an RV-9A in compliance with the FAA requirements needed to certify the aircraft. Any experiences and/or comments are by no means to be considered as instructions on how to build an RV-9A or any other aircraft.
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